|
Hannah
Maclurcan 1861 - 1936 hotelier
Hannah
Maclurcan (1861-1936), cook and hotelier, was born Phillips on 29
December 1861 at Tambaroora near Hill End, New South Wales, daughter
of a hotel proprietor. In 1880 Hannah married Robert Watson Wigham.
She travelled via the Batavia to Europe in 1882 returning the following
year. With her husband she ran the Queen's Hotel in Townsville,
Queensland. She was widowed and in 1887 married Donald Boulton Maclurcan,
a retired master mariner. Donald Charles Boulton was their only
son.
Hannah published a cookbook which was in its third edition by l899.
Her claim that the majority of the recipes were her own invention
was not unusual in cookbooks of the period but her recipes certainly
differed from those in books coming from England: she used pawpaw,
barramundi, oysters (to which she devoted a chapter, as she did
to crab), pumpkin tops (the shoots of the pumpkin vine) and wild
game, including pigmy goose and wallaby. Her economical dinners
relied heavily on that Australian standby, mutton. She espoused
no particular line on nutrition, beyond insisting that cooks taste
what they prepared and beware of over-cooking. She had a knowledge
of Jewish, Italian and French dishes.
In 1901 Donald Maclurcan was licensee of the Wentworth Hotel, Sydney,
and following his death in 1903, Hannah held the license. Her son
was apprenticed to the Empire Electric Light Company and a room
at the Wentworth was set aside for his wireless set. Under her management
the Wentworth became fashionable: she redecorated expensively and
with taste. The city's notables took tea in its palm court and she
published their activities in a glossy Wentworth Magazine,
sold in bookstalls around Australia and in London. It published
stories by Ethel Turner, Jessie Litchfield (qq.v.) and other women
writers, and promoted her cookbook.
By the 1920s Mrs Maclurcan lived in considerable style as the owner
of 'Bilgola' where she planted palms and shrubs brought from Fiji
and Hawaii; she took her holidays in fashionable resorts, went on
sea cruises and was chauffeur-driven in a straight eight Packard.
She owned seven Pekinese dogs with which she was frequently photographed.
She was a supporter of the Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty
to Animals.
In 1930-31 the hotel was adversely affected by the depression and
the noise from the construction of the Harbour Bridge approach.
Mrs Maclurcan rallied her strength to install an indoor golf course
in the palm court as an additional attraction to her clientele,
but the hotel did not again show a profit until 1936. She died in
1936 survived by her third husband Robert Lee. With the proceeds
of the sale of her home and borrowed money, her son added 50 rooms
to the hotel which remained in Maclurcan hands until sold in 1951
to Qantas.
Michal Bosworth
|